Suncare 101. Everything you need to know about sun protection and prevention!

Ahhhh. Summer. What we long for all winter long. That "healthy" sun-kissed glow to mask our ghostly, vampire-esque appearance we've been hiding, behind chunky scarves and sweaters. Ever since fashion and beauty icon Coco Chanel, accidentally caught too much sun on a vacation in the 1920's, sunbathing became a popular beauty ritual that is still consuming our culture today. Shows like the Jersey Shore have glorified tanning beds and spray tans and it has become a part of our daily routine as much as brushing our teeth. But cases of melanoma have tripled in the past 35 years. Which raises the question, are we being misinformed or are we putting more emphasis on appearance than health? It's hard to say. 

Clients are rushing to spas all over to rid themselves of their sun damaged, sagging, and pigmented skin. But haven't made the effort to seek a Doctor for a routine skin cancer screening in years, if at all. So, how do we as skin care specialists and one of the first lines of defense next to a dermatologist, make it known to our clients how serious sun exposure can be when not taking the correct precautions? Well, for starters, we can educate you as much as we can and hope that it will register. 

So let's begin by first understanding that sunscreen is not solely a skin cancer prevention. Although, using sunscreen correctly helps reduce your risk it is still not 100% effective in preventing skin cancer. Avoiding direct sun especially from the hours of 10:00am-3:00pm is another measure in preventing your risk. 

But let's focus on sunscreen and the importance of knowing which sunscreen is right for you, how to apply it correctly and how often. Sunscreen should be worn every single day, rain or shine. It should be applied in lotion form NOT spray form and 1 ounce (the amount of a shot glass) should be reapplied every 2 hours, regardless of it's claims for water and sweat resistance. Spray sunscreens seem awfully convenient and useful but it's not easy to measure the amount of sun protection that is covering your skin. Most of it is being absorbed into the air and not to mention the inhalation effects it could be having on your lungs. Body lotions, makeup and moisturizers with SPF are NOT enough sun protection when being exposed to sun directly or for long periods of time. Broad spectrum sunscreens are extremely important! Blocking out both UVA (what's responsible for aging) and UVB (what is most often the cause of skin cancer and sunburns). 

Did you know there are actually two different types of sunscreen? There are physical (mineral) and Chemical sunscreens, but not all are right for everyones skin conditions or skin type. 

Physical vs. Chemical Sunscreen: Physical sunscreen is often referred to as mineral sunscreen. Includes ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These active mineral ingredients are known for deflecting damaging UV rays away from the skin. It is naturally a broad spectrum sunscreen and is used on people with sensitive skin especially when prone to irritation from heat. Mineral sunscreen has the ability to block heat and energy from the sun away from the skin. It is less likely to clog your pores and a very good choice for those who suffer from melasma or hyperpigmentation since the heat of the sun can actually worsen the condition.  

Chemical Sunscreen- uses active ingredients oxtinoxate, oxybenzone, and octisalate which are organic carbon based compounds that are known as chemical ingredients due to its chemical reaction on the skin, creating heat from the UV rays and releasing it from the skin. Chemical sunscreens take longer to absorb then physical ones which means they should be applied 20 minutes prior to going into the sun. it is not suitable for sensitive skin, those with pigment issues, or rosacea. 

SPF WHAT? Ever stare aimlessly as the sunscreen aisle and become overwhelmed by the SPF ratings or numbers and which one is actually supposed to protect you? Most people think, the higher the better. SPF 100 is perfect, I won't have to reapply all day. WRONG. Despite our common misconceptions, anything over SPF 50 is not giving you any more significant coverage or protection. SPF 70 is only slightly more coverage then SPF 50 and so on. The number is misleading to many. Most people think the higher the number the longer the coverage but that is not exactly what the number actually stands for. For example, let's say we are using an SPF 30. If it takes you 10 minutes to burn without sunscreen and 300 minutes to burn while wearing a sunscreen then you would divide 300/10 and you would get an SPF of 30. Which essentially means you are getting 300 minutes of protection before you burn. But this DOES NOT mean that you shouldn't continue to reapply every 2 hours. This is the biggest mistake we make when it comes to sun protection. We give our sunscreen too much credit by thinking it is protecting us way longer then it is. So reapply. reapply. reapply. 

Other Essentials: Besides the obvious sunscreen precautions stated above, wearing protective gear such as wide brimmed hats, lightly colored clothing and UV protective eyewear is crucial to providing protection from the sun. 

Expired Sunscreen: Ever notice that your moisturizer with SPF has an expiration date and your regular sunscreens? Well, it's for good reason. They actually do lose their effectiveness, so toss those sunscreens when they expire or you can be doing yourself a disservice. 

I provide both chemical and physical sunscreens to my clients as well as tinted SPF and SPF that contains both chemical and physical ingredients. I have sunscreen that is perfect for every skin condition and skin type, so if you are struggling with knowing which option works best for you, please contact me for a skin consult. 

All About Facial Oils

It's hard to believe that at one point we tried to avoid oil in our skincare products at all costs. Oil was the enemy. We searched long and hard for oil free products to prevent acne and we dried out our skin as much as possible to get rid of it. I am happy to say skincare has come a long way. These oils we once feared are not only welcome but have become the focus of skincare to some degree. Not only to heal our skin but to brighten, prevent wrinkles/aging and believe it or not, to prevent and diminish acne. The key is to find the right oils in your products or to add the right oils into your routine.

Going back to basic chemistry, we know that like attracts like. Well this holds true for oil as well. Oil attracts oil, therefore, if our skin is extremely oily applying oil to the skin will actually degrease it. When our skin is dried out from acne medications and harsh cleansers that strip the natural oils from our skin, the skin will overproduce oil to compensate for what it is lacking.

This doesn't mean we slap on loads of oils everyday and go on our merry way. It is important to know that oil should be applied in a specific manner and order for you to get its true benefits. Oils should really only be applied at nighttime because of their weight on the skin. They can be too heavy and give you too much of a sheen for daytime.  If you wear makeup you are creating too much slip for the makeup to stay on throughout the day.  Nighttime is the perfect time for oils to penetrate into the skin when your body and skin is repairing itself. The order which you apply oil is just as important as when. Oils can be applied alone after your cleanser and toner OR they can be applied on top or mixed in with your moisturizer. You only need 1 to 2 drops of oil. Overdoing it can actually lead to bacteria build up on your skin. How should it be applied? The oil should be dabbed or patted onto the skin the same way you apply a serum. 

So now that you know when, how and what order to apply it. Let's talk about which oils are right for YOU. I'm not going to list every oil because there are so many on the market now. This list of oils are the ones I use the most on myself and my clients because I personally love them. But what I love might not be what you love, so feel free to experiment with other oils as well. Argan, macademia, marula, maracuja oil are some other examples of oils commonly used for the skin and hair. 

Aging Skin or Dry and Dehydrated skin

Rosehip Seed Oil- This oil has recently taken the internet by storm and for perfectly good reasons. If you haven't noticed from it's name, this oil comes from the seeds of a rose bush and is slightly orange in color. It's packed with antioxidants, vitamins and fatty acids that are very beneficial to the skin. This is a great natural alternative to chemical based moisturizers filled with synthetic ingredients and parabens. It has wonderful moisturizing properties. But if your not willing to ditch your routine yet, you can always add a few drops to your moisturizer for added hydration. With Vitamins A & C this oil has been used to help treat dry, aging and pigmented skin. It can help tighten sagging skin by improving its elasticity, rebuilding collagen, fading hyperpigmentation and minimizing scars, stretch marks and fine lines. 

Grapeseed Oil- This has easily become the best carrier oil I have used. It's so lightweight and absorbs easily into the skin. It is rich in beta-carotene and Vitamin D, C & E and also has essential fatty acids: Stearic, Linoleic & Palmitic which makes it great in the treatment of wrinkles and scars. Grapeseed oil also contains Polyphenols which are antioxidants with anti-inflammatory benefits, which makes it a great oil for moisturizing acne prone skin (especially adult acne). It also restores collagen since it contains "OPC" a flavanoid that firms the skin and keeps it youthful. This oil makes a great base oil for oil cleansing as well. My favorite oil cleansing combination is: 1 part castor oil, 2 parts grapeseed oil and 2 drops tea tree oil, 1 drops Vitamin E oil. (Too much castor oil can be very drying, if you're typically dry you may only need a few drops of castor oil). 

Acne Prone (Teen-Adult)

Jojoba Oil- This is one of the most useful oils in my opinion. It can be used on any skin type but it's specifically a special oil for acne prone skin. Jojoba is a very unique oil. It is actually a mix of monounsaturated liquid wax esters and it mimics our own sebum. Therefore, it does an amazing job at balancing out the oil production of our skin. It is rich in iodine which fights the bacteria that is responsible for acne (p. acnes). Most bacteria die when coming into contact with jojoba oil. It has a high content of Vitamin E which promotes healthy clear skin. It is also an antioxidant that protects and prevents free radical damage. 

Evening Primrose Oil- This oil is especially effective for hormonal acne. Some women suffer from some type of hormonal acne from teen-adult. Evening primrose oil can be used both internally and externally to balance hormones. Applied directly to the skin can have just as many benefits for hormones and acne. It will greatly help reduce inflammation, speeds up the healing of acne, reduces the size of an acne lesion and prevents future acne scars. It helps reduce redness both topically and orally due to it's anti-inflammatory properties. It provides psoriasis relief due to linoleic acid (an omega 6 fatty acid). It's also great at reducing hyper-pigmentation such as melasma and other types of pigment issues are usually caused by hormonal fluctuations and imbalances. This can also be used as a carrier oil for essential oils or for treatment oils (which are explained below). 

Treatment Oils

Sea buckthorn oil- This oil comes from the seeds and berries from the sea buckthorn plant. It can be used to reduce many skin conditions including acne, dermatitis, dry skin, eczema and skin ulcers. I love adding a few drops with another oil (jojoba, evening primrose, or rosehip seed) for facial massage or for added benefits as a night moisturizer. It can also be very soothing to treat sunburns. 

Tamanu oil- This is by far my favorite "treatment" oil for healing skin conditions such as ingrown hairs, wounds, scars and acne. This special oil comes from a Tahitian tree that contains a green fruit that dries and produces a greenish oil. It is very rich in fatty acids and is very emollient so use sparingly if you are acne prone. I use this oil in with the sea buckthorn oil for my facial massages as well. This oil can be used as a spot treatment for acne: add 1 drop of tamanu and 1 drop of tea tree and apply to a q-tip, dab on acne lesion before bed. As an ingrown hair treatment: 3 drops of tamanu and 2 drops tea tree to a cotton ball and apply to shaved legs or face to prevent and treat ingrown hairs. 

Why has K-Beauty (Korean Skin Care) taken the world by storm & why you should probably get on board…

If we know anything about Korean skin care we know their beautiful porcelain, glass-like complexion is unmistakable.  So how can a sun worshiping country like us, be suckered into a world of skin care that’s main goal is to avoid UV damage at all costs? That means absolutely NO TANS, not to mention the extensive 10-step system both morning and night, when we can barely find time to drink our morning coffee or remove our makeup at night, let alone apply essence? And what on earth is – essence?

We have already dabbled into a little world of K-beauty with out even knowing it, most likely. When bb and cc creams started to replace your foundation and concealer and you started to bare more of your skin then probably ever before, incorporating nutrient and vitamin enhanced bb and cc creams to your everyday regimen.  The main goal of K-beauty is to look beautiful without makeup. Prevention is the key to their very involved beauty routine, but all for a good cause. We are used to treating a problem once it has already risen, which is why spot treatment acne solutions are one of the most purchased skin care items on the market. K-beauty’s goal is healthy, vibrant, hydrated skin that is free of pigment from sun damage. Pale=Beauty.  This goes against the soul of our existence. We escape to “paradise” on beach getaways to literally bask in the sun for hours on end, some even wearing little to no sunscreen at all. (Which is why my biggest clientele are hyperpigmented sun worshipers).  So why would I make this change you may ask? Because it is the key to product absorption and YOUTHFUL looking skin, BEFORE your skin begins to age.

Although this system is very involved and seems nearly impossible for the average person to consider, please note that all 10 steps of Korean skincare do not have to be done daily. And I specifically want to state that if you barely even wash your face as it is, please do not go from 0-100 overnight. Your skin will go into shock and will react. I can promise you that. Start out slow. Less is more. And READ ingredients. Below will not be a list of products that you should incorporate into your regimen. Instead it will be a guideline to follow as far as how this system works and the order that it should be done in. The order is very important. Layering skin care products correctly is a huge necessity for the products to do their job properly and penetrate into the layers of skin that they need to penetrate into. So if you are starting from 0, I suggest you start out by using a very good oil cleanser, cleanser (or water cleanser) and moisturizer and then the key role in all of this sunscreen, in that order.  I will provide a description as to why all of these are important below. So lets get to it…

10 step K-Beauty Routine

1. Oil Cleanser- This is actually a step I have incorporated not only in my own routine but in my clients facial routine as well, a few years ago. Mainly because oil is a magnet to dirt and oil and will provide a great first cleanse to remove any makeup or residue prior to your next step. 

2. Cleanser- For a second cleanse it is crucial you follow up your oil cleanse with a second cleanse, now that your skin is rid of dirt, oil and makeup, your cleanser can actually do its job, which is cleanse your skin. I like to use a gel cleanser with lactic acid for hydration which is perfect for combo skin but you can also use a foam cleanser or anything specific to your skin needs. 

3. Exfoliate – When it comes to Korean or American beauty when it comes to exfoliating less is more. Some people can get carried away with this step because the grainy feeling of a scrub feels like it’s doing more then you’re used to but over exfoliating causes redness and irritation. That is not going to give you porcelain skin. 

4. Tone – Toning has truly become my favorite skin care step. Some people never include toning into their routine but it is refreshing and also rids the skin of any residue left over from the previous steps and resets the PH of your skin so it’s ready for the next steps.

5.  Essence – Here’s that word again. What on earth is essence? Essence is considered a treatment, sort of between a toner and a serum but provides a necessary step for better absorption of a serum while also providing cellular turnover which keeps your skin youthful.

6. Serum – A serum is crucial for skin change! Serums can target a number of issues and they usually are geared toward certain skin concerns. They are super concentrated active ingredients that provide a delivery system to deeply penetrate into the layers of the skin. They can target pigmentation, repair the barrier layer of the skin, aging etc…

7. Sheet Masks – If you haven’t heard of K-Beauty before now you would have to be living under a rock if you haven’t seen at least one of these sheet masks in either the store or on your insta feed in the past few months. These sheet masks do way more then scare your roommate. But there are so many on the market it is extremely important that you do your research when it comes to these masks. Some are not only drenched in beneficial serums but also a ton of harmful and scary chemicals and parabens that are not healthy for your skin or your health. These masks are not a daily step, they can be used up to 3 times a week.

8. Eye Cream – It is very important in Korean skin care to very carefully treat the eyes using delicate motion, eye cream and eye makeup remover prior to the first step. Your eye area needs a lot of attention and should definitely be incorporated to avoid aging.

9. Moisturizer – This step ties all the other steps together by supercharging the other 8 steps into the deeper layers of the skin and helping them all work properly and together. Sleep packs are also used in place of this step nightly a few times a week. Sleep packs are an overnight mask that is not washed off until the following morning when you begin your morning routine.

10. SPF – The MOST important step which I know may sound redundant because I said that about a lot of these steps but the sole purpose of these steps is to achieve perfect, porcelain skin. Porcelain meaning pale and free of pigmentation. To avoid aging and retain youth you must avoid the sun and sun damage. Which means wearing sunscreen every single day.

This may sound extremely time consuming and it definitely can be in the beginning but skin care should be a lifestyle, just as exercise, diet and hair care. Make it a priority now and you will avoid a lifetime of fixing skin care conditions you could have avoided throughout the years.

(Photo courtesy of ASCP)

When & How Often Should I Get A Facial?

This question is definitely my most frequently asked question. I will start out by saying that if you are looking for results, getting a facial regularly is very important. When I say regularly, I mean making your skin a priority, like you would work and working out. I suggest scheduling in self care as if it were part of your day. This means washing your face morning and night, not sleeping with makeup on, exfoliating at least once a week, treatment masks etc.. That also means rebooking facials/treatments about every 3-4 weeks depending on the severity of the treatment you are getting. A basic facial with a scrub based exfoliant that is gentle and not abrasive can be performed as often as every week. That is not feasible or realistic for most people. So I suggest 3-4 weeks, however during the weeks you are not getting worked on, home care is so so important. It prolongs the effects of your facial and prevents further irritation post treatment, or speeds up the process of the treatment (all depending on the home care that was provided to you at the end of your treatment). 

For treatments such as chemical peels, enzymes or any other treatment that exfoliates the skin on a deeper level, I suggest no sooner than 4-6 weeks. It generally takes 3-4 weeks for the skin to move through a full life cycle of cell regeneration. As we age this process slows down dramatically which is why our skin starts to age and lose its elasticity. Chemical peels and enzymes are such an amazing anti-aging treatment because they speed up the process in which the skin turns over, creating fresh new skin that is firmer and younger looking. 

For microdermabrasion and physical exfoliation that is less intense can be performed as often as 2-3 weeks depending on the sensitivity of your skin. Microdermabrasion and physical exfoliation are great treatments for smoothing the surface of your skin, lightening and brightening your complexion, unclogging very minor acne, diminishing the appearance of large pores and blackheads and smoothing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Most importantly, NEVER get a facial too close to an important event. If you are getting married especially, 2-3 weeks prior to the event to prevent any possible allergic reaction or purging of the skin. 

(Photo courtesy of ASCP)

NEW to the Menu: Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a form of mechanical exfoliation that removes dead skin cells from the epidermis (outermost layer of skin). The type of microdermabrasion that I perform is Diamond Tip Microdermabrasion. This uses a crushed diamond tip that is coarse for exfoliation combined with suction to aid in pore cleansing and provides the level of exfoliation. There are many benefits of Microdermabrasion which include:

• Smooths Fine lines and wrinkles
• Diminishes large pores
• Helps mild skin congestion
• Mild hyperpigmentation
• Smooths superficial scarring
• Smooths Stretch marks
• Stimulates the production of collagen

Treatments work best in a series of 6, 7-10 days apart. Post treatment, the client should always use moisturizer and SPF of 30 or more. Clients should avoid hot showers, exercise, steam or saunas for at least 24 hours and should avoid exfoliation prior and post treatment for at least 7 days. Please avoid prior to treatment for at least 1-2 weeks: Botox, Fillers (6 weeks prior), Electrolysis, waxing, Retin A, or any topical prescription acne medication. This treatment is not for those with Diabetes, Hepatitis, Auto Immune Disorders and results may vary in clients who smoke. 

(Image courtesy of ASCP)

Why the Enzyme Craze?

Some of my clients might be wondering what this whole new wave of enzymes are that i've implemented into my practice. While some are quite tingly and not the most comfortable procedure, they do an amazing job targeting a number of skin ailments. If you're looking for a spa facial thats more relaxing, these type of facials are not for you. If you're looking for dramatic results then this is definitely the facial for you. The reason why I LOVE enzymes so much is the specific enzymes I work with can be modified to be stronger or weaker depending on your skin type and can also be combined with acids or retinols to make it a more targeted treatment. I've seen some really profound results since I've started working with them and want to help you understand what they are and how they work so you can fall in love with them as much as me.

What are enzymes and why do they work so well? 
Enzymes are my preferred form of exfoliation during a facial treatment because of their incredible ability to eat away at dead skin cells while causing very little irritation. The specific enzymes I work with are combined with a multitude of anti-oxidants such as blueberries, cherries, pumpkin etc.. which give them extra credibility for anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties. Physical exfoliation buffs away the surface of the skin to cause a polished appearance however can be abrasive at times according to the sensitivity level or your skin. Enzymes breakdown the keratin protein and can even protect against free radicals and oxidative damage. Some of these enzymes are combined with lactic, glycolic, salicylic, arbutin, mandelic, and kojic acids to provide an extra boost of acne fighting, skin lightening or hydrating properties. Each enzyme targets a different skin condition and result, which I will determine during your skin consult, what would be the right treatment for your skin and your skincare goals.

What are Peels? Which do I choose?
I love a good chemical peel especially for aging skin. As we age the rate at which our skin cells regenerates slows down causing a build up of dead skin cells and reveals a very dry, dull and uneven complexion. Peels speed up this process by causing temporary damage to the skin so it can regenerate new skin cells and collagen at a faster rate, thus revealing an even, smooth and bright complexion. However, a chemical peel can be misconstrued by many people. Not all of them cause a ton of actual peeling. They all have a different molecular size which allows some chemical peels to penetrate deeper into the skin then others. There are 3 types of peels. Superficial, Medium and Deep.  These peels all have different rates at which the skin heals and  may cause initial dryness and some flaking until the new skin is regenerated. Superficial peels usually require about 7 days to heal. Medium about 14 days and Deep about 14-21 days. Your skin needs to heal completely before receiving another peel, so getting peels too often can actually cause your skin to darken, purge more or cause a lot of irritation. Peels help a number of skin conditions such as:

Acne scars 

Aging skin 

Crow's feet 

Hyperpigmentation 

Melasma  

Scars 

Sun damaged skin 

Sagging skin 

Wrinkles 

I suggest starting off with enzymes since it is a little gentler and as your skin adjusts to these enzymes you can add a boost and eventually start superficial peels and work your way up. Please feel free to request some amazing before and afters in my treatment room.

(Photo courtesy of ASCP)

5 Tips to Winterize Your Skin!

Tis' the season for steamy hot showers, numerous tea and coffee drinks throughout the day, and pumping high drying heat in our homes. Although, those are all comforting to us during the cold weather, they take a huge toll on our skin. Dry-chapped, flakey lips, scaly alligator skin, rough cracked heels and itchy dry scalps are just a few of the downfalls of the winter on our bodies, making us feel sluggish and unattractive. Here are a few tips to winterize your skin, so it is glowing right into the spring!

1. Switch to oils. Ditch the usual lotion when you get out of the shower. Try an oil such as, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, olive oil or jojoba oil. These oils absorb into your skin but tackle the dry, flakiness without the chemicals and unnecessary ingredients found in the store bought lotions and creams. It's heavier in consistency and feels really luxurious. If you hate the feeling of oils, try something heavier than a normal lotion like a body butter or a thicker ointment like Eucerin. 

2. Exfoliate. Exfoliate. Exfoliate. You can moisturize dry skin over and over again, but until you slough off the dead skin, that moisturizer is not going to absorb into the skin the way it should. It can also clog pores. So exfoliate 3 times a week with a mild exfoliant. DO NOT GO OVERBOARD. You do not need to use an abrasive scrub to get the results you are looking for. A sugar scrub for the body, should do the trick. 

3. Increase Omega 3 Fatty Acids. Besides increasing your water intake, Omega 3 fats are extremely important to hydrate the skin from the inside out. Omega 3's prevent dehydration and hold the moisture in your cells keeping them strong and also helps to calm irritated skin. 

4. Hyaluronic Acid. Look for Hyaluronic acid in your products. This is a substance that is created in small doses in our body. It attracts moisture, and bonds with water giving the skin instantaneous moisture when in contact with this serum. It also increases collagen production, which will help with the prevention and reduction of aging. This is available in a serum form, or you can find it as an ingredient in moisturizers.

5. Tea Tree Itchy Scalp Relief. If you suffer from a dry winter scalp that is flaking and itching, you can create your own scalp scrub using tea tree oil, a carrier oil and sugar.  Mix granulated sugar, a few drops of tea tree oil and a few teaspoons of a carrier oil such as coconut or olive oil and gently rub the scalp. Tea tree oil is antifungal and antibacterial and will help to kill the bacteria that is causing the dandruff. Also, limit the amount you wash your hair during the week. If you can skip shampoos it will help the scalp from loosing its natural oils.  

If you love to drink dehydrating teas and coffees during the winter to keep warm, switch to caffeine free green tea. It actually helps hydrate the body. If you don't like green tea, make a detoxing tonic using hot water, lemon, honey and some cinnamon.